Vintage Guitar and Bass forum

Refinishing my '82 Victory

Refinishing my '82 Victory
« on: December 07, 2008, 09:37:23 PM »
Hey guys,

I hav this '82 Victory Standard with a Victory Custom neck (to be seen at http://forums.vintageguitarandbass.com/showthread.php?1639-My-newest-catch-82-Victory-Standard ), but really don't like the refinish the former owner had done.

I'd like to refisnish it myself and was thinking about using nitrocellulose spraycans like the ones here: http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/l ... ransparent

I want to completely strip the body so I can have the tech at work check the electronics and in the meanwhile I can free the bridge of rust and dirt... When it's stripped I want to check the look of the wood and if it's a nice piece I want to use a clear lacquer, if not I'll have to use a colour that covers... If a clear colour is posible I was thinking White Blonde or Clear Red, if not I was thinking aged Pelham Blue or Sherwood Green Metallic.





Now what I want to know from you: What lours would you use? How would you guys work? and especially: Where can I get good nitro cellulose lacquer for a reasonable price?

Any tips & hints are welcome as this would be my first 'big' guitar job ;-)
- \'82 Gibson Victory Standard
- \'72 & \'78 Fender MusicMaster Basses
- \'50s / \'60s Egmond Princess 2
- Fender BG-32
- ...
Proud endorser of Crime Industries: http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewProfile&friendID=63949227

Refinishing my '82 Victory
« Reply #1 on: December 07, 2008, 09:40:41 PM »
I may have forgotten the most important question: What's the best way to remove the paint that's on it right now? It appears to be a pretty thick layer or multiple layers of average hardware store spraypaint...
- \'82 Gibson Victory Standard
- \'72 & \'78 Fender MusicMaster Basses
- \'50s / \'60s Egmond Princess 2
- Fender BG-32
- ...
Proud endorser of Crime Industries: http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewProfile&friendID=63949227

jules

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Refins
« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2008, 11:14:02 PM »
I've never done a refin myself, but I have also been looking at those cans - if you proceed with this, i'd be really keen to see the result.

What colour are you going for?

Refinishing my '82 Victory
« Reply #3 on: December 08, 2008, 10:14:10 PM »
Hehe, like I said I'm in doubt:

If a clear colour is posible I was thinking White Blonde or Clear Red, if not I was thinking aged Pelham Blue or Sherwood Green Metallic.

What would you go for? Maybe I missed an option :p
- \'82 Gibson Victory Standard
- \'72 & \'78 Fender MusicMaster Basses
- \'50s / \'60s Egmond Princess 2
- Fender BG-32
- ...
Proud endorser of Crime Industries: http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewProfile&friendID=63949227

Refinishing my '82 Victory
« Reply #4 on: December 09, 2008, 04:35:47 PM »
Well, I dont know where you can get the paint from. Only sources I know are in US.

As far as stripping, I would use a chemical stripper, and opposed to all sandpaper. With sandpaper, you have a tendency to round sharp edges and destroy the lines of a guitar. A good chemical stripper in a couple passes should get rid of most of your color. A light pass with sandpaper of a fine grit could be used to remove anything the chemical doesnt get.

Of course you will want to do a nice final sand with very fine paper before you spray a new finish.

Check  out Stew mac.com

They have tutorials under some of their finish items for sale.

eb2

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Refinishing my '82 Victory
« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2008, 08:03:23 AM »
Color is such a subjective thing, and a Victory is the kind of bass that lends itself to a lot of different looks.  If the wood looks nice, natural or cherry look nice to me.  I could see a nice vibrant Fiesta red as well.  Opaque colors would need a base coat of white primer to give a nice base as well.  You would be well-served to check out the ReRanch forum as well.  There are always guys from the UK and everywhere else swapping tips and sourcing info.  It is probably the most informative place to go for finishing.  Good luck!
boom

Refinishing my '82 Victory
« Reply #6 on: December 11, 2008, 12:51:40 PM »
Sea foam green would look great.

You don't have to strip all the old finish off if you are going to do a solid color.

jules

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refin
« Reply #7 on: December 11, 2008, 01:19:36 PM »
Quote from: Redbird
You don't have to strip all the old finish off if you are going to do a solid color.


No, that's true.

I think I like black best for Victories. Victory pickguards look so cool, just the white edging on a black on black bass. Plus I think, as a first attempt you'll get an easier go of it, and therefore (hopefully) a better result.

These tins are for sale in the UK - the only source i've seen for them so far (reranch don't ship overseas)

Refinishing my '82 Victory
« Reply #8 on: December 11, 2008, 01:38:02 PM »
I was thinking of a translucent red, kind of like the SG Reïssue, if the wood's nice. Otherwise one of the original colours like the silver on the front of the manual?

Jules (or anyone that knos...), what exactly were the original colours? I only know the silver, black and candy apple red I think...

BTW: Stripping advise is more than welcome too here ;)
- \'82 Gibson Victory Standard
- \'72 & \'78 Fender MusicMaster Basses
- \'50s / \'60s Egmond Princess 2
- Fender BG-32
- ...
Proud endorser of Crime Industries: http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewProfile&friendID=63949227

Refinishing my '82 Victory
« Reply #9 on: December 11, 2008, 01:39:04 PM »
they also had a sunburst, black and confederate flag one.
https://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/Victory.php

Refinishing
« Reply #10 on: December 12, 2008, 10:50:49 PM »
You DO need to strip all the old finish completely because often the new paint will react with whatever's on there and make a mess. Lacquer is very reactive stuff. Take it completely down to the wood.
If it's lacquer or enamel on there, Zip Strip works great. You can also use lacquer thinner. If it's urethane on there, I'm not sure that any solvent will strip it...you can use a heat gun (BE CAREFULL, easy to burn the wood!) or a lot of elbow grease, i.e., start sanding!
Check out Guitar Reranch. They have refinishing advice AND the sell vintage guitar colors IN SPRAY CANS!!!
http://www.reranch.com/

Refinishing my '82 Victory
« Reply #11 on: December 13, 2008, 12:07:25 PM »
From Reranch
http://reranch.com/solids.htm

Quote
(Note: If the old finish is a polyurethane finish you will have a difficult time completely stripping the finish back to raw wood. It is acceptable with poly finishes to sand the old finish with #220 dry and use the old finish as the base. If that is to be your direction skip ahead to the section on priming).


Quote
The last step before applying the color coats is to apply a white primer coat. B.I.N.s makes a white pigmented shellac in an aerosol can that will cover the grain and prevent any previous finishes from bleeding through. The white background will also let you apply an opaque color coat with less paint. You can find this sealer at most hardware stores and again, at Home Depot. Spray on two coats. When dry you may notice that the surface feels rough. Sand off the roughness with #320 dry and respray. Sand again. If the surface now appears smooth and all grain is opaqued you are ready for the color coat.

Refinshing
« Reply #12 on: December 13, 2008, 04:02:10 PM »
I've found that if applied on top of urethane lacquer tends to chip off   easily. If you do this, make sure you sand the urethane with 320 grit paper the finest to give the lacquer some "tooth".

jules

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Reranch vs the other stuff
« Reply #13 on: December 15, 2008, 02:29:44 PM »
This is all very interesting. I've heard people say reranch chips easily. So in your opinion this is due to whats underneath rather than the product itself?

Refin
« Reply #14 on: December 15, 2008, 10:11:00 PM »
Top coat is important too, but what's underneath is definitely a big deal.
And having the sealer a little rough sanded helps a lot.You can see on some worn '70s Fenders little circlular scratches on the exposed "Thick Skin" polyester sealer. It looks like they used coarse steel wool to rough up the thick skin so the lacquer top coat would adhere.
Years ago I refinned some '70s Fenders that were stripped but still had the original ployester sealer on the bodies (this is impervious to any stripper, so often remains on stripped to natural Fenders of that era)
I fine sanded them before spraying lacquer and later had problems with paint chipping off easily.
I know this pertains to Gibson basses but the same principal applies.
I've never actually used Reranch lacquer, by the way, but I know someone who has and never complained about it chipping easily. The prep and compatibility of the undercoats makes all the difference with ANY finish.

 

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