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EB3 questions

EB3 questions
« on: November 23, 2007, 07:41:16 AM »
I just picked up a slot head EB-3.  It has some issues that will take some dough and time, but, as-is she's got some nice character.
Allow me to ramble about her.....I was looking for "the sound" "look"; a good player, so keeping it original isn't important.  It came with a Badass II bridge and a Dimarzio (not sure the model but the pickup cover is a matted / textured black) which I knew going in.  With its issues, I still really liked how the bass felt in my hand, as well as the sound.  Plus, I bought it for a gig I've got (David Bowie tribute band called Space Oddity in Los Angeles).  Having an EB-3, specially a slot head will be nice for the Spiders tunes we do (Trevor Bolder).

So.

The neck has issues.  Truss is as tight as it can go and still there's more than normal bow.  Frets at 13-16 buzz to the point where I can't get any sustain w/o raising the action to an uncomfortable level.  I have a good tech in LA who'll do the work (remove frets, fix truss, plane the board, new frets etc. for $ 275

The wiring I think I want to get completely redone.  Cavity doesn't show a choke and the varitone switch is a little suspect.  Contact cleaner didn't help it much.  My tech could do the work (I presume) but, if anyone knows someone in LA who loves to work on Gibsons, please feel free.

I don't like the 1/4" jack.  Seems too weak.  Again, I want to turn this thing into a solid, dependable "player".  

If anyone has any comments aside from congratulating a new proud EB-3 owner, please feel free.  

Lastly, another application I think will work for this bass is my jazz gig.  R&B, standards, bebop etc..  It's got a nice warm, phat punchy tone that I think will work great in this setting.

jules

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EB3
« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2007, 01:56:56 PM »
Hi, and welcome to the forum

You are probably right to get the work done professionally, if you are unsure.

One thing to try maybe - as long as the truss rod is working - a way of sorting out neck problems - is to clamp the neck.

Clamp it to straightness, and simply tighten the rod (don't over tighten). Probably best to remove the nut, grease it - and if the nut has been overtightened or is digging into the wood, add a washer.

You will probably need to repeat this truss rod adjustment as the neck settles down (over days, or weeks) - maybe doing this a few times - but this will almost certainly help get the neck back to where you want it

Thijs

EB3 questions
« Reply #2 on: November 25, 2007, 04:38:47 PM »
The thing with the clamp is interesting... never thought of such a help in getting the tension of the neck. It seems usefull to older neck's wich sometime's have very tight truss rod's.
However... isn't there a risk, once the rod is tightend up, that the rod is exploding out of the fretboard, when loosin' the clamp?
Hombre Thijs... Tabasco!

www.treshombres.nl

EB3 questions
« Reply #3 on: November 27, 2007, 10:28:39 PM »
I don't have the courage nor expertise to mess around with my EB3 so to my luthier she has gone.

I'm having a heckuva time trying to find a case for it.  Is there anything out there designed for the slot head neck?  Someone mentioned Hiscox.  I wrote them about a USA dealer, but, haven't heard back yet.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.  I'm concerned that I may not find a case to accommodate the unique dimensions of the slot head (with its tuners extending behind the neck.

jules

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clamping necks
« Reply #4 on: November 28, 2007, 03:44:01 AM »
Quote from: Thijs
isn't there a risk, once the rod is tightend up, that the rod is exploding out of the fretboard, when loosin' the clamp?


I don't think it should do, but I can't say absolutely - this method is widely used (although i've only had to do it once), but perhaps it would be more of a problem on a really badly bowed neck

EB3 questions
« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2008, 05:22:32 PM »
Gents,

I got my EB-3 back from my luthier.  He's a great tech.  Norik Renson in Los Angeles.  Love the bass.  He really dialed it in.  

Still looking for a quality fitted case.  No luck yet.

Thijs

EB3 questions
« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2008, 05:35:28 PM »
I tried the clamp-thing myself on a '72 P last week. I had to take the risk. I left the strings on tight and slowly bended the neck upwards (placed foam underneath the clamp offcourse to prevent for harm)... must say I got some swetty hands, do...

Every now and then I twisted the rod just a bit upright...
Then I loosend the clamp...

Man, this works! I could come all the way straight! Then adjusted each string with the bridge next to buzz... The neck is playing like butter right now with a very low action on each string.
Hombre Thijs... Tabasco!

www.treshombres.nl

EB3 questions
« Reply #7 on: August 07, 2008, 08:20:14 PM »
Hey guys, I jwas just recommened this forum from some guys off of the Talk Bass forum, so I am brand new to this forum and am I need of some help.

I have a '74 Gibson Ripper, and have reason to believe that the neck is warped or bowed to the point where I'm not getting enough sustain and power out of the bass.  I came to this conclusion when I put it up against my Fender jazz during a gig.  The jazz was so much louder and had soooo much more sustain and power.  The Ripper seemed to lack mostly on the treble side(D and G string).  I know this has nothing to do with pups being weak or not set high enough, they are as high as I can get them without touching the strings when I play.  

I'm am definitely not an expert when it comes to luthier work, so I don't know a lot about the truss rod, how it works, how much bow, etc. But would this clamp method help my sistuation at all?
Any help would be MUCH appreciated.
I wanna get this bass back on the road ASAP! Thanks guys!!!

EB3 questions
« Reply #8 on: August 08, 2008, 03:11:28 PM »
Either the neck is bowed or not, first you have to establish that by looking straight down the neck from the neck joint or headstock and go from there.


Which way is it bowed and where is it bowed on the neck?

jules

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Ripper neck adjustment
« Reply #9 on: August 08, 2008, 03:16:59 PM »
Quote from: nfgrufio
I'm am definitely not an expert when it comes to luthier work, so I don't know a lot about the truss rod, how it works, how much bow, etc. But would this clamp method help my sistuation at all?

Hi and welcome. Well, i'm not sure any truss rod adjustment will help you get more volume. The truss rod will straighten or bend the neck, everso slightly, which will lower and raise the action. If your pickups are already up close to the strings, a truss rod adjustment won't get them any closer.

At the same time, if your action is not right, you won't get the best out of your bass.

With regard volume, your pickups may be at issue. Are all 4 settings about the same volume? Check out this page https://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/Ripper_controls.php

It shows you the function of the four positions. Note 3 have both pickups running, in and out of phase. If the releative heights are significantly different you can expect some loss of volume here. If one pickup is faulty there will definately be a volume loss.

Having said this, some people have remarked that ripper picks can be a little weak at times (i've never really found this), and there is often connection problems under the scratchplate (a downside to wiring to a scratchplate)

What about your polepieces? Have you tried raising those? If it is mostly treble you are lacking, it may be that the treble ones need to come up. Again, you want roughly equal output on all four strings, from both pickups to get a strong 'phase' signal.

Let us know what happens

I

 

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