In 1972 Gibson produced a series of 'Guitar of the Month' brochures, each dedicated to one of their high end models, the Les Paul Recording guitar, L5-CES, ES-175D, Super 400-CES, ES-355TD-SV and
Byrdland. Each brochure was a single sheet folded into four panels, with details of the instruments themselves, their features, musical purpose, and a little history behind the development of each guitar. Only the Les Paul Recording was a new model; the others were all well established in the Gibson line. Follow the link to see scans and further information on these leaflets and other Gibson guitar catalogues from the CMI and Norlin periods.
The earliest versions of the Vox Stroller were actually copies of an early Japanese electricguitar, the Guyatone (also sold under the brand Antoria) LG50. These Strollers, although short-lived did undergo a few changes before taking on the more familiar Strat influenced style of many mid-sixties UK-built Vox guitars. The biggest difference between early and late LG50-style Strollers (and the two pickup version, the Shadow) was the larger pickup, a shade longer, but noticeably wider used in the very first Vox guitars. Compare this early Vox to a 1963 Stroller with the later V1 pickup. For more information about Vox guitar pickups in general, see the Vox guitar pickups page.
I've seen a lot of people asking for Ripper wiring diagrams, but all there seems to be out there is the Gibson schematic, which doesn't help much if you can't read them. In sorting the wiring out on mine I had to map the electrics, so here it is, in case it's any use to someone else. Can't guarantee it's the original, but it works and gives 4 useable settings on the varitone, which I still don't understand.
Last edited by spinynorman; 08-22-2011 at 09:48 PM.
Incidentally, can anyone explain the Varitone to me? I thought about rewiring maybe pos 4 to neck pickup solo, but I have no idea what to solder where.
A Varitone selects between different capacitors in an LC Filter. L = inductor, C = capacitor.
It's similar to the Ripper's Midrange control but gives a more dramatic tone change.
The Ripper's switch is a pickup selector.
1: Both pickups in series
2: Bridge pickup
3: Both pickups in parallel
4: Both pickups in series, out of phase.
Not a varitone, but is easy to mix them up. As I said earlier, the Midrange knob (bottom tone control) gives more of the effect of the traditional varitone (like on the ES-355, etc.)
It's similar to the Ripper's Midrange control but gives a more dramatic tone change.
The Ripper's switch is a pickup selector.
1: Both pickups in series
2: Bridge pickup
3: Both pickups in parallel
4: Both pickups in series, out of phase.
Not a varitone, but is easy to mix them up. As I said earlier, the Midrange knob (bottom tone control) gives more of the effect of the traditional varitone (like on the ES-355, etc.)
Thanks, it's a very complicated pickup selector.
I've put another version of the diagram up with the switch connectors numbered. Makes it a bit easier to talk about. On my '78 Ripper the wire from terminal 14 goes to 8, not 6. So I now need to check this again, either it is different, or I just got it wrong.
using the numbered Varitone pictured above, can someone tell me which wires are engaged for each of the 4 positions? I have a 1975 Ripper. Position 1 I get no sound. The other 3 work ok. I used Deoxit on the Varitone and pots, but still can't get position 1 to work. I thought maybe I would wire the neck PU by itself in the position 1 setting.
OK , I got # 1 to work. It was miss wired with the black wire from the neck PU going to #6 instead of #4. I rewired it and now #1 works. Also, my #14 goes to #8 (or 7, don't recall but they are connected), not #6 as noted in your picture. I have a 1975.
OK , I got # 1 to work. It was miss wired with the black wire from the neck PU going to #6 instead of #4. I rewired it and now #1 works. Also, my #14 goes to #8 (or 7, don't recall but they are connected), not #6 as noted in your picture. I have a 1975.
Glad it works now. I expect my diagram is wrong about #14 going to #6. On the diagram I did for my 78 #14 goes to #8. I just haven't got round to checking it. There's so much wire in that cavity, it's no wonder they end up broken and wired wrong.